Dried pulses and spices count as ingredients that do not go off. Technically that is true, as they do not grow mould. But both become useless over time.

Old pulses will not soften

Chickpeas, beans and lentils lose moisture as they age and the structure of their skins hardens. Chickpeas over a year old can still leave a hard core inside even after an overnight soak and two hours of boiling.

This is the commonest reason behind the "why has it not cooked" complaint in recipes like white beans and chickpea stew. There is nothing wrong with the recipe; the pulses are old.

If there is a production date on the packet, look at it. If not, a practical test: if the colour has faded and the surfaces look dull, they have been sitting.

What to add to the soaking water

Bicarbonate of soda loosens the skins and shortens the cooking time. But the amount matters: more than a dessert spoon leaves a soapy taste. In the hummus recipe the same method is also used to make the skins come away easily.

Do not put salt in the soaking or the boiling water. In salted water the skins toughen; salt goes in once the cooking is finished.

How to store pulses

• In glass or lidded plastic jars, not in the bag
• Somewhere cool and dark; the cupboard above the hob is the worst option
• Do not tip a new bag on top of an old one, or what is underneath stays there for years

With spices the problem is loss of flavour

Spices do not spoil, but their volatile oils escape over time. Two year old cumin is harmless, just tasteless. When a recipe says "a dessert spoon of cumin" it means cumin that still tastes of something.

Telling whether it is fresh is easy: rub a little in your palm and smell it. If no clear smell comes off it, it is time to replace it.

Ground or whole?

Whole spices keep far longer than ground ones; with less surface area their aroma escapes more slowly. Buying peppercorns and grinding them shows you the difference from ground pepper the first time you use them.

Red spices such as chilli flakes and isot lose their colour in the light. Always keep them in the dark, in the fridge if you can, which matters especially in recipes like Antep ezmesi where the spice has the leading role.

Dried mint and oregano

These two are sold already crumbled and are among the quickest to lose their flavour. Buying small packets and replacing them often gives a better result than buying a large one and using it for two years.